Paddling Iowa
Story and photos by Dave Mable
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The history of Iowa is tied closely with her rivers. Used as highways for
thousands of years, rivers have always been important to the commerce and development
of our state. The seeds of Iowa's largest cities were planted along river corridors.
While commerce is still important along the eastern and western boundaries
of the state, most of the hundreds of miles of rivers and streams are now
used primarily for recreation. In his book "Paddling Iowa," Nate
Hoogeveen, Director of River Programs for the Iowa DNR, describes nearly
80 sections of river navigable by canoe or kayak. The vast majority would
be described as "quiet flat water flowing peacefully through Iowa's
rural landscape."
While most river water is beginner friendly, there are a few places where
adventuresome souls have begun to play in their snub-nosed kayaks, dubbed "playboats." These
playboats are not designed for running great lengths of river, rather they
are for paddlers to perform technical moves generally in one spot on a river,
such as a "wave" or a "hole."
Being fairly flat, Iowa rivers generally do not offer many features for people
to safely use their playboats. A few waves and holes may form as water levels
rise in a handful of creeks and streams, but consistent water playgrounds
were limited to two or three spots in the state.
A group of paddlers from the northeast area of the state has been cutting
their teeth in a section of the Cedar River in Cedar Falls and near Cedar
Rapids. The Prairie Rapids Paddlers use a spot in downtown Cedar Falls -
Clay Hole - to practice in, but only when the water level is just right.
"
When it's good, it's real good, but it's an old broken out low-head dam and
is inconsistent," said Ty Graham, a Cedar Falls paddler. "We still
consider it our home hole. It's the only other place in the state that provides
the hydraulics needed to do what we want in a safe manner."
Wanting a consistent place to play and to share the joys of playboating,
Graham and other club members began a campaign to convince an Iowa town to
build a whitewater park. While just plain fun, they also saw it as an opportunity
for a town to differentiate itself from others in the state, beautify a waterfront
and attract tourism. After discussions, presentations and lobbying, the north
central town of Charles City made the decision to build it.
Charles City invested one-million dollars in the creation of the state's
first whitewater park and riverside beautification. The unique nature of
the park is expected to draw visitors not just from Iowa but around the Midwest.
"
This is the best whitewater within 500 miles," said Graham as he and
20 others were giving the new park a try in May. "It's safe, consistent
and a real blast."
I had the opportunity to experience the new park on a trial open in mid-May.
While comfortable on the water, I'm more at home navigating a canoe down
a quiet river with a few riffles than taking on a three-foot standing wave.
Graham and his group set me up in the proper equipment, most important of
which were the life jacket and helmet.
"
If you're going in the river, plan to get wet," said Marty Colbert of
Cedar Rapids. "As you hit the wave, just dig with your paddle as hard
as you can," were my instructions. Three experienced kayakers, two of
whom are active paramedics, accompanied me on my virgin run through two of
the three waves.
Looking at the waves from the shore as I snapped photos, they looked fun
- not easy, but manageable. Sitting in a small boat staring face to face
with a roiling standing wave only feet from my bow made my heart race. Fight
or flight is the normal reaction when struck with fear. I was ready to flee.
My three escorts provided comfort, however, and coaxed me into the center
of the river, heading downstream into the first wave.
My front escort must have been shocked at the size of my eyes as I neared
the "slide" into my first wave. With the river sucking you in,
there is no turning back once you are close enough to see down the slide
and into the wave. The only thing to do is keep the boat straight and paddle
like hell. Down the slide and into the crest of the wave, I dug deep, paddling
hard to keep my momentum moving downstream. The wave wants to push you back
upstream. Unless you are prepared for that, getting stuck will flip you quickly.
I blasted through the downstream side of the wave, bouncing through the rough
water on the back side and into flat, but fast, moving water.
My second wave was met in much the same way, and I successfully plowed through
it as well. Moving to the edge in the fast, rough water proved my downfall,
as I caught the edge of my boat in a wave. Before I knew it, I was under
water. A quick exit had me floating downstream with my boat in one hand and
paddle in the other. I kicked over to the side and pulled myself out, wet
and smiling from ear to ear. My first question upon reaching shore: "How
can I learn to do that?"
I later posed that same question to Marty Colber, whose skills and experience
were evident as I watched him cut, flip and spin on the waves.
"
On most rivers in Iowa," he said, "one need only to have the right
equipment, which includes a well fitting type 3 life jacket, hat, sunscreen,
shoes that will stay on in the water and a buddy. Next is to choose a route
that matches your ability and let someone know where you are going and when
you will return, and enjoy your run down the river."
He added that to learn to play in whitewater like that found in Charles City,
a new kayaker needs to learn to roll the boat in flat water, like a pool
or a lake. He suggested that there are many classes around the state that
teach the Eskimo Roll.
"
Once you're proficient at rolling, find a wave and start playing," he
said. "It's best to start with a small wave, but if you are comfortable
getting wet and proficient at rolling, there is no harm in starting in a
larger safe wave like these (Charles City park). Just be sure to have good
equipment and never paddle alone."
While experienced paddlers will take on whitewater in a wide variety of boats,
most like to play in the short, nimble playboats, fitted with a skirt to
keep water out in the event of a roll. Other essential equipment includes
a Type 3 or Type 5 life jacket, helmet, strong paddle, a buddy and knowledge
of the river you are paddling. Other optional items include a whistle, rescue
knife and rescue throw bag.
Colbert, as well as many of the other paddlers on the river that day, suggested
becoming involved in a local paddling club. Here, the aspiring river acrobat
will find most of the resources needed to become an artist in a boat. A list
of resources is found at the end of this article.
Brian Stroner, founder and co-owner of www.paddlingiowa.com, agreed.
"
The first thing that anyone in a boat should know is how to operate it safely," he
said. "I strongly recommend hooking up with a club or an outfitter.
Outfitters will have classes for beginners and demos so you can try a wide
variety of canoes and kayaks." Stroner regularly posts events and clinics
on his website.
Learning the ratings of rivers is important so as not to get in over your
head. Rivers are rated from Class I to Class VII. Class one being riffles
easily navigated in canoes; Class VII is considered non-navigable and requires
a portage (carrying your boat and equipment around the rapids).
"
Please note that these differ from ratings some Midwesterners use, which
consider Class 1 to be flatwater, Class II to have riffles, Class III to
be pretty damned hard and Class IV to be crazy talk," writes Hoogeveen
in his book "Paddling Iowa, Revised Edition" (Big Earth Publishing,
2006).
Hoogeveen warns all paddlers of the dangers of Iowa's low-head dams, which
span the width of a river and back up water upstream. As water reaches the
dam, it flows over the drop-off, which can be anywhere from 6 inches to 25
feet. As water rolls over the dam, it forms a recirculating current below
the dam. This current can trap and drown even the most experienced paddler
or swimmer. When on a river, it is important to have knowledge of a dam's
location and be alert for warning signs, markers or buoys. Iowa's most popular
rivers have marked portages around the dams, but as you re-enter the river,
do so well downstream of the roiling water, or boil. Information about low-head
dams and their locations can be found on the DNR's website, www.iowadnr.gov.
Paddling in Iowa is a great way to enjoy quiet scenic beauty during a relaxing
float trip, or it can offer all the excitement found in a rushing mountain
stream. Either way, be sure to be prepared, use the proper equipment and
know the river you are paddling. Hoogeveen also added that good stewardship
of the land the rivers run through is critical to maintain healthy rivers
and continued use.
"
Leave no trace is good for rivers, paddlers and landowners," he said.
Outfitters
Rock-n-Row Adventures, Steamboat Rock
Seven Oaks Recreation, Boone
Raccoon River Excursions, Adel
Garst Farm Resort, Coon Rapids
River Basin Canoe & Kayak, Burlington
Outback Canoe Rental, Monticello
Upper Iowa Resort Rental, Dorchester
River and Trail Outfitters, Decorah
Huchinson Family Farms, Decorah
Chimney Rock Canoe Rental, Cresco
Canoesport Outfitters, Indianola
www.nocoaststandup.com, Des Moines
Website resources
www.paddlingiowa.com
www.iowawhitewater.org
www.iowadnr.com
www.skunkriverpaddlers.org
www.paddling.net
www.rivermap.org
www.americanwhitewater.org
